Because of my limited qualifications all boats that were built by my company to my own design originated from a half block model that I made. The model was built up from a series of softwood planks each being 3/4 inch thick. The model was always made to a scale of 3/4 inch to the foot; a very simple equation to use when converting to the true measurements in the table for use on the loft floor. From this model tables of offsets and dimensions could be prepared and quantities of materials could also be calculated.

Our loft floor was a pretty simple arrangement; a series of pineboard sheets large enough to accommodate the full size of the new vessel was all that was required.

After building the model and laying out the floor this is the procedure used to build the boat:

Divide the model length into a series that represents the number of fixed frames that the boat was required to have, usually at 4 foot centres.

On the pineboard floor draw a series of lines horizontally at a regular distance of 12 inches (1 foot) apart to represent the waterline.

Draw a further series of lines vertically; these lines are referred to as buttock lines, again at a distance of 12 inches apart. One of these is then selected as the centre line of the boat and the contents from the tables that were previously prepared can now be transferred to the full size grid of waterline and buttocks.

Again from the model prepare full sized templates of the stem profile and transom deadwood to be used to make the full sized components of the boat. Once this task is completed you are now ready to start production on the fixed frames.

The profile of the model is now transferred to paper on the drawing board and the outline of the superstructure is drawn up on top of the hull; this is where you get to create your impression of the finished product. The balance of superstructure to hull is most important in creating a good looking boat.

When the frames and all component parts have been completed the assembly can proceed. The keel stem and sternpost are all put together and set up in the floating position of the finished job. The frames are set up in their positions; everything being level and plumb and ready for a component known as ribbands to be set into the frames longitudinally.

Ribbands are used to help the hull keep its shape and as a fixing point as the hull is progressively planked. Prior to the upper ribbands being fitted what is known as floor timbers are fitted. These are transverse hardwood pieces usually 12 inches x 2 inches set upon the ribbands in the bottom of the hull and through bolted through the keel structure usually 2 between each frame. They carry 4 longitudinal full length engine beds and combined they form the real strength of the boat. As most of my boats had twin screws, inside blocks known as shaft logs are positioned and pilot bored to accommodate the future inside bearing of the tailshafts. Chines and stringers are set into the frames also and after this the whole structure is ready for planking.

Planking may now proceed and if I was building a hard chine game boat, the procedure would be 2 diagonal layers or skins and a final layer fore and aft all laid up in epoxy glue and fastened at chine, ribbands and gunnel.

The next stage is to set out the deck frame. This determines the length of fore deck, trunk cabin, main saloon and cockpit. On completion of this and after fairing, the deck is laid and the outside gunnel is attached.

Basically, timber work on the hull is now finished and at this stage of construction you feel pretty good but from experience you are only about 25 % into the project. From here the fitting out becomes basic joinery woodwork, plumbing and electricals; the ability of the finisher determining the final outcome.

When most people look at a boat it is the superstructure and fit out that takes their eye but these are mostly cosmetic. In a heavy sea the structure and strength of the hull is the most important feature.

As a tradesman and a person that enjoyed my job and built boats pretty much of all my working life I approached my occupation as a person responsible for the lives of others and at all times did my best to ensure that the quality of the work and of all components that we used were the best available at that time.